It’s the first day we’ve been able to lie out. The atmosphere has been moody. Here we are though on the loungers and the surf mashes onto the buttery sand behind us. I brought my book with me but am soon distracted by an iguana. It wanders into my vision about twenty feet away on the grass in a clearing ringed with coconut palms. The lizard is big and its tail tapers off to a seemingly infinite point. It is unafraid and its movements are elegant. Then it stops. A smaller one, more colourful, scampers up alongside. This one has a crest. It seems a little skittish. Are you watching? Yes, I say. Everyone is. The small one climbs on to the scaly spine of the first. They stay like that for ten minutes, maybe more. Some kids from the chalet next door come and take photographs. It looks like a mother giving its baby a ride, as chimps cling to the breast, but I guess they are just having sex. They are not having sex! I sip a little rum as he gets his spuds in slowly. It is the way of it here in the tropics. They don’t seem to care, there by the hotel bar, a stone skip from the sea, as the waves break and break again.